Asia for Beginners

I flew to Singapore without a clue as to what I would encounter. I’d done no research into the culture, food, or anything else that would educate me about the country and had done little preparation other than to buy the plane ticket. Unusual for me, but a good friend of mine who had lived and done business in the country for years was meeting me at the airport. I suppose I figured I’d leave it all up to him and take a break from planning and worrying. 

While I languished in the extreme temperature and humidity, Rob whisked me into a taxi to his friends’ house for introductions and then down the street to a hawker center for some nourishment.

-- Ahhh, the hawker center. A glorious outdoor circus of Asian food, open 24 hours a day, featuring the exotic culinary delights from countries across the continent, with smiling, yet pushy vendors all tempting you with sights and smells unfamiliar, but altogether exciting. It’s like a shopping mall food court on steroids. --

I found myself sitting at a table in the middle of Newton Food Centre at about 1:00 in the morning eating an assortment of Asian dishes chosen for me, profusely sweating from the climate and food, and smiling from ear to ear. How wonderful to be in such an exotic place, having to worry about nothing nor plan for any potential mishaps, and to be enjoying such a fantastic feast! 

But the excitement wore off as I quickly realized Singapore was no more exotic than New York City. Walking along the busiest street in Singapore, I could have been in downtown any-major-city-in-the-States. I strolled through huge shopping malls full of glamorous Western shops: Gucci, Prada, and the like. I saw countless McDonald’s restaurants, 7-Elevens, and Gap stores. In five days, we’d toured the island on a motorcycle, visited the National Botanical Gardens, faced the sheer overstimulation of Chinese New Year, watched wild monkeys mate in the middle of a road, done a bit of shopping and clubbing, visited Little India, and partied with ex-pats. Despite these wild and wonderful experiences, I felt as though I was back at home in the States: it was too easy; too familiar. I couldn’t help but feel I was just dipping my toes in. I came to understand why Singapore is often termed “Asia for Beginners.” 

But there was something tugging at me even harder. Walking the streets, driving the roads, watching the people – I couldn’t help but feel as though something was missing. This is a major international city home to over 5 million people. Where was all the litter, the gum remnants on the sidewalk, the homeless, the honking traffic and shouting, irate public? At the risk of offending: where was the chaotic Asia I was expecting? Everything around me was clean and orderly. It was Asia run by the Swiss. It was comfortable, but in a creepy kind of way. I couldn’t help but feel something was being hidden; something fraudulent or unjust. Singapore seemed to me a neat and tidy little package wrapped up in orchids and luxury. What was really inside this Emerald City? What was hidden behind the curtain?

A brief bit of post-trip research through the all-knowing Internet resource known as Wikipedia reveals that Singapore is “the world's fourth-leading financial centre, the world's second-biggest casino gambling market, and the world's third-largest oil refining centre”; it is “home to more US dollar millionaire households per capita than any other country”; and it is considered “the easiest place in the world to do business”.

Apparently the Singaporean government’s popular image is that of “a strong, experienced and highly qualified government, backed by a skilled Civil Service and an education system with an emphasis on achievement and meritocracy…” However, “it is perceived by some voters, opposition critics and international observers as being authoritarian and too restrictive on individual freedom”.

Singapore’s judicial system is strict and harsh. Trial by jury was abolished in 1970 and penalties include “caning for rape, rioting, vandalism, and some immigration offences,” as well as “a mandatory death penalty for murder, and for certain drug-trafficking and firearms offences.” Amnesty International has claimed that Singapore has “possibly the highest execution rate in the world relative to its population,” though in contrast, a 2008 survey claimed that “international business executives believed Singapore…had the best judicial system in Asia”.

Wikipedia goes on to explain that the Singaporean government provides financial assistance and cheap housing to its poorer citizens, though the country does not have a minimum wage, “believing that it will lower its competitiveness”. While Singapore’s poverty level is low in comparison to other Southeast Asian countries, the country “has one of the highest income inequality [indicators] among developed countries” with the world’s highest percentage of millionaire households (15.5 percent of all households own at least one million US dollars). 

After five days of touring, I came to this conclusion: while Singapore is a magnificent amalgamation of Asian cultures, and the food outstanding, the tiny country is like touring Asia via cruise ship. You sample the culture and food at each port, taking photos and buying all manner of kitsch souvenirs. But at the end of the day you return to the comfort and luxury of the ship. 

Still, I highly recommend visiting Singapore if: a) you’re in the area; b) you want to dip your toes in before taking the full plunge into Asia; and/or c) you love Asian food.